Cladding

You’ve got a great range of options when it comes to cladding an oak building - whether you're going for durability, aesthetics or something that complements the oak frame. Timber boarding isn’t the only option for cladding an oak building, it’s the cheapest and simplest option for a garage building but there are many more alternatives.
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The traditional look of oak buildings from medieval and Tudor architecture is the half timbered style. Half-timbering is a method of construction where the timber frame of a building is left exposed, and the spaces between the timbers are filled with materials like brick, plaster, or wattle and daub. The term “half-timbered” comes from the practice of using timbers that were halved or squared, rather than whole logs. The wooden skeleton - studs, beams, braces - is visible on the exterior, creating a striking contrast between dark wood and light infill. Infill Materials: o Wattle and daub: woven branches coated in clay mud. o Lath and plaster: wooden slats covered with lime plaster. o Brick or stone: used in later or more durable versions. Often the upper stories project beyond the lower ones. This design saved space and protected the lower walls from rain before gutters were common. This single skin style of construction was prone to leaks with air gaps forming when the oak shrank long before people understood the benefits of cavities in wall construction. It was common to show how wealthy the owner was by ‘showing off’ with the amount of oak on display externally. The wider the panels - the ‘poorer’ the owner was. Today, creating the half timbered look is less favoured as it is generally the most expensive way to clad the building as people usually also want the benefit of seeing the oak on the inside so the option to have both requires extra large timbers or a double frame. The larger timbers become more of a problem if the building is to be used for a dwelling as new houses are now required to pass an air test. We can design buildings to incorporate a mixture of styles so some oak is seen on the outside and some on the inside. To have the oak appear on the external face, you need to have an internal skin - usually blockwork. ‘Plant on’ oak is not recommended unless the oak sections are of sufficient section size that proper half lapped joints can be used. This would be 75mm thick oak or a full external frame of 140mm. Using oak boards butted together will always look a mess after a short period of time as any shrinkage that occurs will show the material behind. There are many options to clad and oak building from stone or brick to timber and timber alternatives. 1. Natural Timber Cladding These are ideal if you want to maintain a traditional or rustic look: European Oak: A classic choice - durable, beautiful and ages to a silvery patina if left untreated. You can preserve its golden hue with regular oiling. Western Red Cedar: Lightweight, naturally resistant to decay and has a rich reddish tone. It’s more expensive but very stable. Larch: Tough and resinous, with a warm tone. It weathers well and is more affordable than cedar. Douglas Fir: Strong and cost-effective, with a pale orange hue. Needs treatment for longevity. Sweet Chestnut: Durable and similar in appearance to oak, but with slightly more movement. Waney edge boarding: One edge of each board retains the original shape of the tree, often with bark or irregular curves. 2. Modified Timber Cladding

These are engineered for extra stability and longevity:

Accoya: Sustainably sourced and chemically modified for extreme durability and dimensional stability.

Kebony: Treated softwood that mimics hardwood properties—great for modern aesthetics.

Brimstone: A thermally modified British hardwood range, offering sustainability and resilience.

3. Timber Alternatives If you want low maintenance or a contemporary twist: Composite Cladding: Made from wood fibres and plastic—durable, weather-resistant, and available in various finishes. Fibre-Cement Boards: Mimic wood but are fire-resistant and require minimal upkeep. 4. Style & Profile Options Different profiles of timber cladding area available - featheredge, shiplap, rainscreen and waney edge with featheredge being the most cost effective. Featheredge: Traditional overlapping boards. Shiplap or Tongue & Groove: Sleek and modern with tight joints. Rainscreen: Angled edges to create rain drips Waney Edge: Adds depth and texture. 5. Other Options Using brick as cladding is a popular architectural choice that combines timeless aesthetics with modern practicality. Thin sections of brick known as ‘brick slips’ are sometimes used to clad large steel framed buildings but are not generally used to clad oak buildings.

Benefits of Brick Cladding

Aesthetic Appeal: Offers a classic, textured look that suits both traditional and contemporary designs. Durability: Resistant to weathering, fading, and erosion—ideal for long-term use Fire Resistance: Brick is naturally fireproof, making it a safe choice for kitchens, fireplaces, and exteriors Low Maintenance: Easy to clean with water and requires minimal upkeep Thermal Efficiency: Can improve insulation when combined with external wall insulation systems Versatility: Available in various colours, textures, and patterns—from reclaimed rustic styles to sleek modern finishes Stone can also be used either as an infill or a a complete outer skin around the oak frame. Natural Stone Panels: Real stone pieces (e.g., slate, limestone, sandstone) cut into panels Split Face Tiles: Rough-textured stone tiles for a rugged, layered look Stone Veneer Sheets: Thin, flexible sheets of stone - great for curved surfaces Cast Stone Panels: Engineered stone made from concrete or resin to mimic natural textures. Full stone course: Solid stone block laid in courses. Stone adds texture, depth and timeless elegance to walls, is resistant to weather, fading and impact. It requires minimal upkeep once sealed properly and can help regulate temperature when paired with insulation. Suitable for both traditional cottages and sleek modern builds. Metal cladding, including materials like steel, aluminium, zinc and copper, is known for its durability and modern, sleek appearance. It is extremely strong, long-lasting and resistant to fire, rot and insects. Not often used on oak buildings but can look good on structures that are required to look more agricultural Vinyl, or unplasticised polyvinyl chloride (uPVC), cladding is a lightweight and cost-effective option. It is one of the most affordable cladding materials. It is weather-resistant and easy to clean, requiring very little upkeep but is not the most sustainable choice and is generally not recyclable. Vertical cladding is usually only used on agricultural buildings as it’s often difficult to keep watertight, however with a watertight barrier behind oak can be used when installed with a rubber gasket between each board to allow for any shrinkage ensuring it still looks good after time. This isn’t the cheapest option but it is generally accepted that it looks fabulous.
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Brick Cladding
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© 2016

Cladding

You’ve got a great range of options when it comes to cladding an oak building - whether you're going for durability, aesthetics or something that complements the oak frame. Timber boarding isn’t the only option for cladding an oak building, it’s the cheapest and simplest option for a garage building but there are many more alternatives.

1.

Initial Concept & Feasibility

We can help with as little or as much as you require. Whether it’s supply only of an oak frame or a full build turnkey project, please contact us with your requirements. The majority of our buildings are either supply only or supply and install although we work closely with First Image builders in the South East and LME Building in the Midlands. Define Your Vision: Start with a clear idea of what you want to achieve. What is the purpose of the building? What style do you envision (traditional, contemporary, barn-style)? What's your budget? Initial Consultations: Contact us for a free initial consultation and 3D design visuals. We can advise on the feasibility of your ideas and potential costs. If you are looking for an extension, whether it be a Garden Room, Orangery or Conservatory, we would usually do a site visit to measure up although we can produce a design idea from photos and a few client dimensions. If you place an order based on a remote sketch for a building, we would need to do a check survey. For garages, stables or other stand- alone buildings we can design something based on your requirements. Site Assessment: We will consider the site's characteristics – size, access, ground conditions, existing structures and orientation for natural light. Sketch Designs: We produce 3D sketch designs for your project showing you how the changes will look on your property. This is a free service and once you are happy with the design, we can quote for the oak frame.

2. Design & Planning

Detailed Design:

If you have worked with an oak frame company or architect to develop designs, we can quote from their drawings although we may suggest alternatives if we think the design can be improved upon. This includes not just the oak frame itself but how it integrates with other building elements like glazing, cladding, roofing and internal layouts. We are also happy to produce 3D rendered views of the building to give you a realistic look of the building. Green Oak Considerations: We provide Oak frame specialists design with the understanding that 'green oak' (recently felled and unseasoned) will shrink and develop characterful cracks (shakes) as it dries. Joints are precisely cut to tighten as the timber shrinks, increasing the frame's strength. Air Dried Oak: Seasoned Oak has been dried for a number of years to reduce the moisture content. This is usually used in glazed buildings so that the oak shrinkage is minimal.

Structural Engineering:

A structural engineer will be involved to provide calculations and ensure the design meets all structural requirements, especially for attaching the oak frame to existing structures (for extensions) or for complex new builds.

Planning Permission:

Like any building project, an oak frame building will likely require planning permission unless it falls under Permitted Development (PD) rights. PD rights for extensions and outbuildings have specific criteria regarding size, height, proximity to boundaries and location (e.g., Conservation Areas, AONB’s, Listed Buildings often have stricter rules). Even if your project falls under PD, it's advisable to apply for a Lawful Development Certificate for formal proof. We can assist with preparing drawings and documentation for planning applications or we can take on the full planning process via Plans For Planning.

Building Regulations:

All oak frame buildings (except for very small, non-habitable garden sheds below a certain size) must comply with Building Regulations. This covers foundations, structural integrity (though oak's inherent strength often simplifies this aspect for the frame itself), fire safety (oak chars slowly, providing very good fire resistance), energy efficiency (Part L, usually achieved by wrapping the frame in highly insulated panels like Structural Insulated Panels - SIPs - or using infill systems), ventilation, sound insulation and accessibility. We will provide detailed plans that building control officers or approved inspectors will use for approval and inspections during construction.

3. Fabrication

Timber Sourcing: We source our oak from sustainably managed forests, usually France, or sometimes, the UK. Crafting the Frame: This is where the magic happens. The oak timbers are traditionally cut and jointed in the company's workshop using a combination of modern machinery (e.g., CNC for precision) and traditional hand tools. Joints are precisely cut using mortise and tenon, scarfs, and other techniques, secured by oak pegs. Pre-assembly: Sections of the frame are test-assembled in the workshop to ensure perfect fit before transportation to the site. This off-site fabrication significantly speeds up on-site construction. Pre-delivery: The frame sections are checked, labelled and then banded together ready for delivery. Joinery is wrapped to give further protection from the elements and stored inside to ensure it arrives on site in perfect condition.

4. Site Preparation & Erection

Groundworks & Foundations: This is typically managed by a local groundworks contractor. The foundations (e.g., concrete strip foundations, raft foundations, or pile foundations depending on ground conditions) must be perfectly level and accurate to receive the oak frame. Delivery: The pre-cut oak frame components are delivered to the site. Assembly (Raising the Frame): This is often the most visually impressive part of the process. Our oak frame carpenters, often with the aid of a crane for larger sections, assemble and raise the frame on the prepared foundations. This process is surprisingly quick, often taking just a few days for a substantial frame. Sole Plates: Accurate laying of timber sole plates on the foundations is critical as the entire frame rests on these.

5. Enclosure & Finishing

Once the oak frame is erected, the building needs to be enclosed and finished:

Enclosure System:

SIPs (Structural Insulated Panels): This is a very common method for enclosing oak frames. SIPs are pre-fabricated panels consisting of an insulating foam core sandwiched between two structural facings (e.g., OSB). They are highly insulating, lightweight and create a very airtight building envelope around the oak frame, which is exposed internally. Infill Panels/Traditional Methods: Other methods include using infill panels of timber studwork, brick, or masonry, which are then insulated. Roofing: Installation of roof structure (often incorporating oak trusses) and roofing materials (slate, tile, thatch, etc.). Glazing: Installation of windows, doors, and large glazed sections (e.g., bi- fold doors, glass gables) that are specifically designed to fit within the oak frame's natural movement. External Cladding: Applying external finishes like timber cladding (e.g., cedar, larch), brick, stone, or render. First Fix: Installation of internal services (plumbing, electrics), internal partition walls, and insulation within the walls and ceilings (if not using SIPs). Plasterboarding: Applying plasterboard to internal walls and ceilings (often directly to the timber frame elements or SIPs). Second Fix: Installation of internal joinery (doors, skirting, architraves, stairs), sanitaryware, electrical fittings, and final decoration. External Works: Landscaping, driveways, etc.

Benefits of Oak Frame Buildings:

Aesthetics & Character: The exposed oak timbers create a unique, warm, and inviting interior with a timeless aesthetic and a sense of craftsmanship. Vaulted ceilings and open-plan spaces are easily achieved. Longevity & Durability: Oak is incredibly strong and durable. As green oak dries, its strength increases and the joints tighten. Many oak frame buildings have lasted for centuries. Sustainability: Oak is a renewable resource, and using it locks away carbon for the building's lifespan. Responsible suppliers source from sustainably managed forests. Minimal processing is required compared to other materials. Thermal Performance: When combined with modern enclosure systems like SIPs, oak frame buildings can achieve excellent thermal efficiency, often exceeding standard Building Regulations and leading to lower energy bills. Predictable Construction: Much of the frame is fabricated off-site, reducing on-site build time, labour costs and potential weather delays. Increased Property Value: Oak frame extensions and homes often add significant value and appeal to a property due to their unique character and quality.

Considerations/Disadvantages:

Cost: Oak frame construction typically has a higher initial cost than standard brick and block or softwood timber frame, with the oak frame itself accounting for a third to half of the total build cost. However the speed on site can make the costs quite comparable. Shrinkage & Movement: Green oak will naturally shrink, twist and develop shakes (cracks) as it dries. While designed for, this is a characteristic that some people may not prefer or understand. It requires specialist detailing for windows, doors and internal finishes. Specialist Skills: Requires specialist oak frame designers, carpenters and often a main contractor experienced in this type of construction particularly on larger projects. Insurance: While fire-resistant (large oak sections char slowly and the central core remains. A steel frame will melt and collapse in a fire long before an oak frame), some insurers might initially categorise it as "non- standard construction," requiring specialist quotes. However over recent years this is becoming much less of an issue. The process of getting an oak frame building is a collaborative effort between the client, specialist oak frame company, architect, structural engineer and contractors, resulting in a beautiful, durable and distinctive structure.
© 2016 - Need help? Contact us on 07967 778808